WORMS...TREATMENT

The commonly used anthelminitic drugs Fenbendazole and Albendazole are toxic to pigeons.
410 pigeons of various species at San Diego Zoo and San Diego Wild Animal Park were examined alive or dead. All birds were healthy at the start point, and kept during a period of 45 days because of quarantine, relocation, or presale health cheque for observation. The symptoms looked for were weight change, leukopenia (too few white blood cells), bone marrow changes (less or more bone marrow than normal), small intestinal changes (injuries of the inner lining of the intestines, coursing diarrhoea and malabsorption) and survival.
The results looked as follows:

Treatment given	Weight	Leukopenia	Bone Marrow	Intestinal	Survival
No treatment	Up 4,6 %	12 %	33 % Better	All normal	91,7 %
Albendazole	Down 13,3 %	100 %	83 % worse	77,8 % injured	66,7 %
Fenbendazole low	Down 8,3 %	83.3 %	78 % worse	91,7 % injured	75,4 %
Fenbendazole high	Down 18,8 %	100 %	30 % worse	50 % injured	66,7 %

What seems obvious is that both the drugs are disadvantageous to the pigeons. In all cases the pigeons loos weight after a treatment. Also, most pigeons develop leucopoenia. The fewer white blood cells in the medicated pigeons cause them more susceptible to bacteria and other microbial intruders. This might explain why the survival rate of the treated pigeons is lower then the untreated (controls). Most pigeons that died suffered from an infection. The bone marrow in involved in the production of blood cells, and in the treated birds the bone marrow was suppressed. Furthermore, the majority of the birds get more or less injured intestines, probably from these drugs.
So, why should we give the pigeons one of these drugs? Actually, this report point very strongly that these drugs must never be used unless they are absolutely needed. If you think the birds have got worms, the droppings must be tested by a veterinarian or a parasitologist to confirm the diagnosis. The best would be to test the droppings from each single pigeon, and only treat the birds were worm eggs are found. If intestinal worm infection is diagnosed on the loft, cleaning is very important to get rid of worm eggs in the dung. If you want to give any medication, any remedy containing albendazole ( like "Valbazen") and fenbendazole (like "Panacur") should be avoided. Because chemical similarity, it is likely that also flubendazole (like "Flunebol"), is harmful to pigeons.

Matilda wrote:

Fenbendazole should not be used for Pigeon or Doves because it is toxic to them. Most vets don't realize this.

A couple of years ago a generic was prescribed for a rescue Pigeon in my care. After the second treatment, the poor Pigeon was very ill and I worried she wouldn't survive. Fortunately the problem was figured out before the third dose.
The vet looked it up and confirmed what I have just shared with you.

That's certainly good to know.

Thanks, Charis!
I was thinking of treating my pigeons with Panacur, but in that case, I won't.

All about parasites & pigeons

http://www.vitality.racing-pigeon-post.org/Parasites.html


In the process of health and race performance, external parasites such as lice and mites directly damage the feathers. Control of parasites is therefore vital to the long-term success of the loft. At times, both the information and the enormous array of products available to the fancier can be a bit confusing and so what are the important parasites and what are the current preferred medications available to control them.

The important parasites are basically roundworms, hairworms, tapeworms and lice and mites. Roundworms and hairworms live in the digestive tract of the pigeon, releasing eggs, which are passed in the droppings. After several days, they become infective and, if then accidentally ingested by a bird, hatch in the bowel and grow into a new worm. This new worm then grows into an adult and then produces more eggs. This whole lifecycle can be completed as quickly as 3 weeks. In both the racing and breeding lofts, the number of round- and hairworms should be absolutely zero. This can be achieved by worming twice at a 3-week interval and each time following up with a super-thorough clean of the loft. If it is not possible to totally clean the loft, then worming should be repeated every 3 weeks for at least 6 months. Worm eggs cannot survive in the environment for more than 6 months, and treating for longer than this therefore means that there are no further infective eggs in the environment to re-infect the birds. Worm infection is diagnosed by microscopic examination of droppings. Droppings should be regularly checked by a veterinarian or animal technician. If re-infection occurs from introduced birds, returning race birds or strays, the above protocol should be repeated.

Tapeworms have a different and fascinating lifecycle. The adults live in the bowel, burying their heads deep in the bowel wall and feeding off body fluids. Behind the head stretches a ribbon-like body that is divided into segments. These segments are called egg packets or proglottids. As they mature, one or more of these segments break off from the end of the body and are passed in the droppings. Once in the environment, the egg packets need to be eaten by an insect to become infective. Pigeons, in turn, become infected by eating one of these insects. Tapeworm infection does not require a microscope to diagnose, as the egg packets in the droppings are visible. Most are about the size of a grain of rice and are white to pink in color. Often a fancier will notice that a bird is a bit quiet and that its droppings are a bit loose. Close examination will reveal the small white glistening egg packets in the droppings. With tapeworm infection, the bird’s just need to be treated once but the loft should be sprayed with a safe long-acting insecticide to minimize the chance of the birds eating more insects. The droppings in the loft should then be monitored during cleaning to ensure that infection does not recur.

For roundworms and hairworms, these days there is no reason to use anything else than an avermectin such as Ivermectin (‘Ivomec’), Moxidectin or Improver & AntiFungal in double dosage. These products are just so safe and effective and of course have the handy side-effect of also killing all external parasites that suck blood. This includes all mites. Do, however, watch your dose rate, do not overdose or the pigeons will not drink the treated water.

All avermectins are well tolerated and the birds can be fed and loft flown routinely. These medications can also be used safely during breeding, racing and molting. In overdose, the birds will become quiet and some may vomit. However, with withdrawal of this medicine the birds become normal in 1 - 2 days.

Some fanciers will notice that some worming preparations contain piperazine. This is an older drug that rarely gives 100% clearance of worms and because it has been used a long time some worms are totally resistant to it. Products based on levamisole - and a number of liquids and tablets are available - have the strong disadvantage that food need to be withdrawn for at least 12 hours before and 6 hours after treatment and even then many birds will still vomit. This makes it very hard to use during racing. Wormers based on fenbendazole and mebendazole cause huge frets to form in the feathers if used during molting and are not conveniently packaged for use in birds.

When using avermectins to treat mites remember that all mites that infect birds are not always found on them at any one time. Many live in the nooks and crannies throughout the loft. Unless the loft is also treated they quickly re-infect the birds. At the same time as treating the birds with Improver, Antifungal, Ivomec or Moxidectin, spray the loft to avoid this. Simply scrape the loft out as you normally would and then spray a diluted insecticide on to the scraped surfaces and into the cracks and crevices. Done on a warm day, the loft will be dry in 1 - 2 hours and the birds can be called back in. Try and do such a loft treatment in the morning so as to ensure the loft is completely dry by night.

Tapeworms are best treated with praziquantel. This drug is very safe and like the avermectins can be used at any time of the pigeon year. During treatment the birds behave normally and can be loft flown and fed normally. Praziquantel is available in tablet form and also as a water-soluble solution called Prazivet. Prazivet tends to be fairly bitter and so often it is better to give each bird 0.25 ml of the neat solution individually to each bird in the back of the throat.

Lice live off feather debris and so the avermectins have limited effectiveness against them. When lice are a problem, it is necessary to spray or dip the birds. As lice live always on the bird, treating all birds simultaneously will rid the loft of these. Whatever you do, do not use any of the older preparations such as Malawash. These are based on organophosphates. Organophosphates have a very narrow safety margin in birds and accumulate in their system to their detriment. Having a fancier ring the clinic in a panic after using Malawash or a similar product, with bird’s dead or dying, happens all too commonly. Organophosphates are absorbed through the skin and as long as the birds remain wet continued absorption will occur. Often fanciers have been lucky and have earlier dipped on a warm day and have had the birds dry quickly. Dipping on a cooler day means the birds stay wet for longer and absorb more of the poison. This prolonged skin absorption coupled with a narrow safety margin tips the birds into a toxic dose range.

These days use a synthetic pyrethroid such as Permethrin. These are very safe yet just as effective as organophosphates, prevent reinfection for up to four months and do not take the bloom off the feathers. To spray the birds, dilute (usually 10 -20 ml per liter) into a handheld pump bottle and spray the birds liberally. To dip the birds, pick a warm day, fill a bucket with warm water, add Permethrin at the rate of 10 -20 ml per liter together with a wetting agent (e.g. some children’s baby shampoo or a few shavings off a cake of pure soap such as “Velvet”) and away you go. If done correctly, the vane of the feathers will collapse back to their quills, exposing pink lines of skin. The birds look like drowned rats but after spreading in the sun and a bit of preening look normal in about 1 - 2 hours.

Excellent reference material!

Thanks, Charis!

Thanks, Charis.

Matilda wrote:

Fenbendazole should not be used for Pigeon or Doves because it is toxic to them. Most vets don't realize this.
A couple of years ago a generic was prescribed for a rescue Pigeon in my care. After the second treatment, the poor Pigeon was very ill and I worried she wouldn't survive. Fortunately the problem was figured out before the third dose.
The vet looked it up and confirmed what I have just shared with you.

Additional evidence:

This is an extract from a pigeon necrosis which I found online. The vet attributes the bird's death to bacterial infection and damage to the GI tract caused by the use of Fenbendazole or a closely-related drug:

Quote :

...There is a mixed bacterial population identified. No other microorganisms are identified. This may be a primary bacterial infection, although this is uncommon.
There is a change to the intact lining mucosal epithelium of the crop, which is suggestive of possible fenbendazole or related drug toxicity. This has been reported in pigeons and at doses that are published for use in pigeons. Review of recent drug history is recommended. This drug can be immunosuppressive and result in significant lesions of the gastrointestinal tract as well as bone marrow.

Drury R. Reavill, DVM
ABVP, Certified in Avian Practice
Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Pathologists